Grouper Zinc Anodes

Maria Johnson
• Sunday, 13 December, 2020
• 7 min read

Using the cable on a cleat, secure the Grouper's weight below the bottom of the hull before attaching the alligator clip to outboard or out drive mounting bolt, or to rudder or strut ground strap, etc. The Grouper hang-overboard zinc anode is a heavyweight anode attached to an electrically conductive cable with an alligator clip on the end.

zinc anode grouper hang anodes overboard type detailed
(Source: www.usazincs.com)


Of galvanized wire rope and an electrical contractor with instruction sheet enclosed. Product Features Zinc Anode kit for:Item no. Mounting Instructions Mine, Dinette (version 172, 160)5178101Minor, Major5107900Master5108000Master5108000Master SH×, Proline132895-Matador5108100Maxi Octaline5185300Magnum5055601Mega N 5111702Mega H5111703Salvador5109500Senior, Sandy5109600Minette Inox132894-Major, Master Knox --Salvador Inox132894-Senior, Sandy Inox132895-Bravo 200/300 drive unit5160200-Bravo 200/300 hydraulic unit5160201-Bravo 400 drive unit5160300-Bravo 400 hydraulic unit5160304-Bravo 500/600 drive unit5160301-Bravo 500/600 hydraulic unit5160304-Bravo 700/800 drive unit5160302-Bravo 700/800 hydraulic unit5160305-Bravo 900 drive unit5160303-Bravo 900 hydraulic unit5160305- * Must be used in combination with steel baseplate.

Start Over Could not find any links for specified country. Details Portable Grouper >Anode is ideal for electrolytic control over specific Boat parts and conditions.

Simply attach the alligator clips to the part requiring protection and place the Fish (anode) into the water. These anodes, are made of metals more reactive than the material used for the ship’s body and systems.

Subsea structures pipelines platforms wind turbine foundations monopiles wave and tidal generators quay and harbor walls jetties & pontoons dock gates ships and boats hulls ballast gray and potable water tanks power station intake screens storage tanks Cathodic Marine specializes in manufacturing large platforms, bracelet and flush mounted Anodes, in sizes up to 4 tonnes (4000 KG), in line with the highest standards and quality of Marine and Offshore industries.

Capacity to last and provide effective Cathodic Protection for up to 25 years No maintenance required Very high reliability No modifications on hull interior, and no hull penetrations Zero risk of interference Compatibility with other CP systems on subset equipment Lower overall life cycle cost Zinfandel are cast from a high purity zinc alloy to ensure an even corrosion pattern, reliable electrical efficiency and long working life.

(Source: www.getaprop.com)

A typical Ballast Water Tank where sacrificial anodes are fitted to protect against corrosion. SOLVING YOUR CHALLENGES Geared with a team of experienced, well-trained personnel possessing the required skills and an extensive knowledge of the CP market,allows it to secure various projects with valuable and profile centric project management to cater to the Marine & Offshore Sectors.

Nous utilities DES cookies pour optimizer vote experience utilisateur ET pour amplifier LES contents. En pursuant vote navigation, vows accepted LE depot DE CES cookies.

Vows poured personalized ET modifier Los choir en relevant à tout moment SUR CE site par LE lien DE section DES cookies. Gear cases are exposed to electrochemical activity, which results in galvanic corrosion of the housings.

Sacrificial anodes counteract galvanic corrosion by adding a third metal into the circuit, one that is quicker than the other two to give up its electrons! Aluminum anodes provide better protection and last longer than zinc Andes.

Zinc anodes must be produced in virtually sterile conditions to avoid contamination, which eliminates all of zinc's sacrificial properties. Choose from Quicksilver or Mercury branded anodes and cathodes for your drive, engine, prop, gimbals, etc.

anode zinc grouper martyr 57kg whitworths marine
(Source: www.whitworths.com.au)

Gettinthere do you believe it is your boat or the marina that has the stray DC current eating your zinc's. So most likely you will still need to dive or rig your camera (iPhone) to take an underwater picture of your prop and the zinc.

I have used my iPhone in a waterproof container attached to the boat hook. There was a forum message that talked about checking the DC current in the water around your boat in the past 6-8 months.

So hanging a fish would only give minimum protection to whatever it’s near, I clipped one to the back stay which did nothing. The zinc on the shaft are a lot closer to the prop than any fish would be.

My Max prop also uses zinc fast which makes sense if it’s moving through the water. Never understood the zinc on the outboard attached to the aluminum casing.

If you want a zinc Grouper or whatever, I'd put a copper or solid bronze post in one of the convenient lockers, run a marine grade (green) #12 or #14 wire from a GOOD Ground on the engine to the post. (just because I'm into overkill :^)))) Then I'd connect the zinc that you plan to drop to that. Since you are having some signs of stray current corrosion.... As for your through hulls, if you have metal (bronze) ones, I'd check those to see that they're okay, that the wires that link them to the ground have continuity and aren't corroded to be worthless.

anode hanging grouper zinc tabs trim boat left
(Source: westcoastboatzincs.com)

Even marine grade wires that are tinned corrode in a salt water environment. Less than 12 inches to the forward surface of the strut may block cooling water to the cutlass bearing.

FYI, you may and that you can feel the shaft zinc with your foot while floating at anchor. Expecting a properly working zinc to last a year isn’t going to get it.

You are going to have to short haul, swim or pay a diver and get those zincs replaced. Zincs last a long time in freshwater because they don't offer any protection.

In freshwater, aluminum or magnesium are much more effective. Rather than throwing more sacrificial anodes at the problem, it might be prudent to find the electrical pathway that is causing the rapid decay. The Malaprop zinc will go faster if it is doing its job, it protects a big piece of bronze.

You can help it out by shining up the backside of the Malaprop and slapping a shaft insight to the back of the prop body. The Malaprop zinc will go faster if it is doing its job, it protects a big piece of bronze.

anode zinc grouper weld anodes
(Source: www.thezincguy.com)

You can help it out by shining up the backside of the Malaprop and slapping a shaft insight to the back of the prop body. This looks very similar to my setup, short shaft with a donut zinc on it but not hard up against the prop.

I found that installing a galvanic isolator helped a lot with zinc erosion. I switched to aluminum anodes years ago because I move between brackish and saltwater (picture above).

Get an 8-month season out of them, could probably stretch that to a year but when the Malaprop zinc comes off it has the ability to snap the mounting bolts off in the prop body. Cruising with a boat with so many dissimilar metals through waters with variable salinity negates any comparison to a Boat that sits in the same slip for three months then gets hauled for the winter.

Get an 8-month season out of them, could probably stretch that to a year but when the Malaprop zinc comes off it has the ability to snap the mounting bolts off in the prop body. The Malaprop anode has very narrow amounts of material around the attaching bolts.

Normally no issues for galvanic current, but when you bond your lifelines, you make them part of lightning protection. Mine are isolated from a nearby water strike and let's people hold on to them without fear of a back flow of electricity. I use a drop zinc when in transient marinas or when the diver can't be readily available.

anode grouper portable zinc anodes engine
(Source: www.hillarysboatshop.com.au)

Remember the zinc to shaft/prop is just one part of the galvanic “electrical circuit”. _____ Since my use is temporary, I use a cheap Auto jumper cable through a portal to connect to my engine shaft.

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